Monday 19 July 2010

Paris and the Seine

I got back late last night and am spending today enjoying being home. It was a wonderful trip. Those Impressionists know how to paint although for me, Post Impressionism and some Modern Art has a greater impact. We spent the first three days in Paris. Unfortunately, it was 90F and about 90 humidity. Combined with lots of walking, this was hard going for me. I knew I was out of shape but I hadn't registered that I had become a slob. Now I know and, of course, my plan is to do something about it. Later.

No one else was interested in modern art so I took myself off to the Pompidou which I loved. Many people consider it a blot on the Paris landscape, a load of pipes! Well, there are lots of round metal bits sticking out but they are colourful and interesting. I wouldn't want the whole of Paris to look like the Pompidou but it pleases me that the Pompidou looks like the Pompidou. Also, the escalator system on the outside of the building is good and works well. Going to the top provides an increasingly panoramic view of the city. I spent most of my time on the fifth floor; the permanent exhibition. All the great ones are here - Braque, Derain, Matisse, Chagall, Kandinsky, etc. and, of course, the greatest, Picasso. I have another offbeat favourite, Chaim Soutine. He uses wonderful colours and that quirky rippling style. I discovered a new painter (new to me) called Sonia Delauney. And then there was Francis Picabia. A strange bloke, obviously angry but I was interested to see his work because I had discovered him many many years ago in a cookbook by Alice B Toklas (Gertrude Stein's girlfriend) which described how to cook eggs a la Francis Picabia. They were delicious but I have to wonder if this was because he used about 1/2 lb of butter for 6 eggs.

We started the cruise in Paris and went down the river to the Normandy beaches to have a look at Omaha Beach and the American cemetery. Obviously this was very sad. Things cheered up with a side trip to Bayeux to take a look at the tapestry. This is a marvellous piece of work but I became a bit fed up with the pro William spin. I've always been a Harold fan and I think he got a raw deal. He and his troops had to run all the way up to York to deal with some very nasty Vikings and then turn around to run back down to the south for the major battle with W the C. The tapestry makes a big deal about Harold swearing to allow William to be king of England after the death of Edward but if you look closely, there are a couple of blokes with spears pointing at him whilst he takes the oath.

We also went to Rouen to visit the spot where Joan of Arc was burnt and to see the Cathedral. The local museum had an exhibit of 11 of Monet's paintings of the Cathedral in all lights. It was fascinating to see them side by side. We stopped also at Honfleur and we watched the Bastille Day fireworks from the upper deck of the boat. Another high point of the tour was the trip to Giverney; a garden to die for. The lily pads in the pond were good but the garden even better. I think I understand now where Judith got her inspiration for the plan of my garden. Now, if only I could paint!

We finished up back in Paris and said our farewells on Sunday morning. Most of our group were flying back to Los Angeles so they were up for an early start. I made new friends some of whom I will see when I am in LA in September. But I have to say I was thrilled not to be facing an 11 hour flight after a tiring week. Being a tourist is not for the faint hearted. Anyway, I love Oxford and am lucky to be living here.

1 comment:

  1. Sounds like you had a great trip. So, we'll both get in better shape before we hit the rolling hills of Ireland next year!

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